機内食はなぜ「美味しい」と感じにくいのか 理由は食べ物のせいではなかった

原因は私たち、もしくは、飛行機かもしれない。えっ、どういうこと?
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A cabin attendant displays an in-flight meal of paella-style rice for Vanilla Air during a media preview at Narita Airport in Narita, Chiba Prefecture, Japan, on Tuesday, Dec. 3, 2013. ANA Holdings Inc. rebranded its low-cost carrier as Vanilla Air after a venture with Sepang, Malaysia-based AirAsia Bhd. dissolved in June over disagreements on how to run the company. Photographer: Kiyoshi Ota/Bloomberg via Getty Images
Bloomberg via Getty Images

機内食を普段から好んで食べたいと思う人は稀だろう。しかし、口の中のあの不味さは、私たちに原因があるかもしれないことがわかった。もしくは、飛行機に問題があるという。えっ、どういうこと?

最新の研究によると、大きな騒音、とりわけ飛行機の中で発生する騒音が、味覚を著しく変えてしまうことがあるという。甘味は抑えられ、うま味は不自然に増幅されて感じるようになる

この研究は、2015年3月に『実験心理学会誌 - 人間の知覚と行動』に掲載されたものだ。48人の被験者が、静かな部屋と飛行機の客室音を再現した部屋の両方で食事をした。研究グループの出した結論はこうだ。「飛行機の客室」内では、甘味を感じる能力が抑制される一方、うま味に対する知覚は増幅する。コーネル大学食品科学科の助教授で同研究の共同著者、ロビン・ダンドー氏はハフポストUS版に、音によって被験者のこれらの味に対する感覚が10〜15%変化したと語った。騒音と耳の神経の間に起こる、感覚相互作用が影響しているのではないかという。

トマトジュースにはうま味が多く含まるため、機内では味が違って(多くの人にとってはより美味しく感じられる現象も、これで説明できそうだ。この現象を裏付ける事実として、2008年に乗客がフライト中にビールと同じだけ沢山トマトジュースを飲んでいることに、ルフトハンザのスタッフが気がついた。これは同航空会社にとって衝撃的な発見だった。ルフトハンザのケータリング取締役が指摘したように、ドイツ人はビールがとても大好きだからだ。

上空10キロの世界では、騒音以外にも味覚に影響する要因がある。客室の乾いた空気で鼻粘液は乾燥し、気圧の低下で細胞膜は膨張する。そのどちらも、フライト中の味覚器を実質的にまひさせてしまう。ルフトハンザが行った研究で2010年に明らかになったのは、飛行中に似た状況下では、甘味と塩味の感覚は最大で30%も鈍くなるということだ。そのため、どんな種類の食べ物も味を感じにくくなる。

飛行中はおとなしくピーナッツをかじる程度にしておくのが得策かもしれない。

【訂正】2015/11/22 13:10

当初の記事で「気圧の高まり」としていましたが、正しくは「気圧の低下」でした。

H/T Time

この記事はハフポストUS版に掲載されたものを翻訳しました。

「空飛ぶホテル」A380画像集
UAE-AVIATION-ETIHAD-ECONOMY(01 of44)
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Journalists tour the first class section on the Etihad Airways Boeing B787, at Abu Dhabi airport on December 18, 2014 after the Abu Dhabi-based fast-growing carrier revealed its first Airbus A380 superjumbo and Boeing B787. The A380 will enter commercial services on December 27 in a flight to London Heathrow, while the B787 will fly on February 1 to Dusseldorf in Germany. AFP PHOTO / MARWAN NAAMANI (Photo credit should read MARWAN NAAMANI/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:MARWAN NAAMANI via Getty Images)
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FILE - In this Sunday, Feb. 10, 2013 file photo, the first class section of an Emirates airlines Airbus A380 is ready for boarding at the new Concourse A of Dubai airport in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. For generations, international fliers have stopped over in London, Paris and Amsterdam. Now, they increasingly switch planes in Dubai, Doha and Abu Dhabi, making this region the new crossroads of global travel. The switch is driven by both the airports and airlines, all backed by governments that see aviation as the way to make their countries bigger players in the global economy. (AP Photo/Kamran Jebreili, File) (credit:ASSOCIATED PRESS)
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The prepared first class seating area onboard an Airbus A380-800 aircraft, operated by Emirates, is seen as the plane waits to depart from Terminal 3 of Heathrow Airport in London, U.K., on Thursday, Dec. 5, 2013. Emirates, the world\'s largest buyer of Airbus A380 aircraft, is exploring engine options for a batch of 50 additional superjumbos, handing Rolls-Royce Holdings Plc an opportunity to unseat a General Electric Co. and Pratt & Whitney joint venture that powers the existing jets. Photographer: Paul Thomas/Bloomberg via Getty Images (credit:Bloomberg via Getty Images)
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Journalists tour the first class section on the Etihad Airways Boeing B787, at Abu Dhabi airport on December 18, 2014 after the Abu Dhabi-based fast-growing carrier revealed its first Airbus A380 superjumbo and Boeing B787. The A380 will enter commercial services on December 27 in a flight to London Heathrow, while the B787 will fly on February 1 to Dusseldorf in Germany. AFP PHOTO / MARWAN NAAMANI (Photo credit should read MARWAN NAAMANI/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:MARWAN NAAMANI via Getty Images)
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